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Hardanger Embroidery in Detail | Picture This
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Jolly Hardanger girls in national costume climbing boulders at Lake Sandven, Hardanger, Norway. Stereograph copyrighted by Keystone View Co., 1907. http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/stereo.1s34436

Hardanger Embroidery in Detail

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In the course of searching our collections for images for my recent Flickr album, Needlework of All Kinds, a specific type of embroidery caught my attention – Hardanger. In the stereograph below, the original caption tells us we are watching a woman from the Telemark region in Norway create a piece of Hardanger embroidery:

Telemarken girl in national costume making Hardanger embroidery, Norway. Stereograph copyrighted by Keystone View Company, 1907. http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/stereo.1s34527

Below is a close-up of her embroidery. The reason it caught my attention is that I’ve seen a piece of Hardanger embroidery created by my mother hanging in my family home for decades, and the name and look of it in this 1907 photo matched. Hardanger embroidery is made by creating patterns of stitches in the fabric that then allow the maker to cut through the threads of the woven fabric, creating a pattern of holes with stitched edges. There is far more to it than my basic explanation, of course! The repeating patterns of holes make this type of embroidery easily recognizable.

Detail of <em>Telemarken girl in national costume making Hardanger embroidery, Norway.</em> Stereograph copyrighted by Keystone View Company, 1907. http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/stereo.1s34527
Detail of Telemarken girl in national costume making Hardanger embroidery, Norway. Stereograph copyrighted by Keystone View Company, 1907. http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/stereo.1s34527

A question I had never asked before is: Why is it called Hardanger? The photo above finally sent me on that journey of discovery and as usual, the depth of our visual collections served me well in expanding the story. I searched for Hardanger in the online catalog as well as elsewhere and found the name comes from the Hardanger district in western Norway. It is traditionally a combination of white stitching on a white woven fabric, such as linen. These detailed works are then used to trim garments, particularly women’s clothing worn as part of Norwegian national costume in that area.

Knowing what this type of needlework looked like allowed me to find other examples of Hardanger embroidery by studying the women’s clothing in photos from that region.

In the two images below, the young ladies are both referred to as a “Hardanger girl” and their skirts have telltale signs of Hardanger embroidery, but with very different patterns.

Hardanger girl in picturesque national costume, Christiania, Norway. Stereograph published by Keystone View Company, 1906. http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/stereo.1s34372

[A Hardanger girl, Hardanger Fjord, Norway]. Photochrom by Detroit Publishing Co., between 1890 and 1900. http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/ppmsc.06131
This group enjoying Lake Sandven in Hardanger both shares more examples of Hardanger embroidery in the women’s skirts, but also a hint of the beautiful landscape in that region.

Jolly Hardanger girls in national costume climbing boulders at Lake Sandven, Hardanger, Norway. Stereograph copyrighted by Keystone View Co., 1907. http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/stereo.1s34436

In this detail of the above photo, the elaborate designs on the skirts are more visible.

Detail of Jolly Hardanger girls in national costume climbing boulders at Lake Sandven, Hardanger, Norway. Stereograph copyrighted by Keystone View Co., 1907. http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/stereo.1s34436

The lake behind this group is connected to Hardangerfjord, one of the longest fjords in the world. I’ll leave you with some late 19th-century images of the region that is the namesake of this unique embroidery style.

[General view from fjord, Odde (i.e. Odda), Hardanger Fjord, Norway]
[General view from fjord, Odde (i.e. Odda), Hardanger Fjord, Norway]. Photochrom by Detroit Publishing Co., between 1890 and 1900. http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/ppmsc.06141
[From Vikinghaug, Odde (i.e. Odda), Hardanger Fjord, Norway]. Photochrom by Detroit Publishing Co., between 1890 and 1900. http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/ppmsc.06140
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